Ultimate Hydroponic Marijuana Growroom

!±8± Ultimate Hydroponic Marijuana Growroom

16 plants grown in coco run-to-waste system, 8 X 600W HPS in cool tubes mounted to Ablite MK3 shades, plus a Co2 Burner.

Ultimate Hydroponic Marijuana Growroom

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Mr Green How to Build a Basic Indoor Weed Grow Room - Step by Step Construction Guide (3 of 9)

!±8± Mr Green How to Build a Basic Indoor Weed Grow Room - Step by Step Construction Guide (3 of 9)

How to build a indoor grow room part (3 of 9) Mr green shows how to build a indoor hydroponic grow and flower room you might want to take notes Mr Green is very informative Note: these are not my videos i have finally found all 9 parts and decided to upload them all to one channel ENJOY!!!!

Mr Green How to Build a Basic Indoor Weed Grow Room - Step by Step Construction Guide (3 of 9)

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Organic Gardening - Pros and Cons About Decorative Stone Mulch

!±8± Organic Gardening - Pros and Cons About Decorative Stone Mulch

There are pros and cons with a decorative stone mulch as there are in just about everything. Stone mulches do have a nice clean crisp appearance when installed properly but they have a limited benefit to an organic garden.

Stone / Rock mulches, also called decorative stone leaves a neat clean appearance if installed properly. They should be dug into the ground between three and four inches deep and edging installed to hold the stone / rock into place. Installing a weed barrier under the stone / rock will control the weeds.

There are a couple of factors on why decorative stone mulches don't benefit an organic garden. Stone used for mulch doesn't decompose or add any nutritional value to the soil as you would have with an organic mulch. Without the organic matter there is no environment that would attract living organisms needed in the soil to benefit the soil structure and add the nutrients needed naturally for plants to thrive. The installation of a weed barrier under a decorative stone mulch limits the amount of water that can get to the root system of a plant. These fabric are made for water to penetrate but before a majority of the water can penetrate through most of it has run off the sides.

When watering plants that have a weed barrier installed around them the barrier needs to be pulled back to supply the plant with the water they need and to allow for the application of any nutrients that are needed to feed the plants.

Decorative stone comes in many colors, shapes and sizes. It can be bought in bulk or bagged quantities from your local garden center.

Organic Gardening - Pros and Cons About Decorative Stone Mulch

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Tips On Watching Your Grass Grow

!±8± Tips On Watching Your Grass Grow

What are you going to do? Watch the grass grow???

Who has not heard that one?

But the real question is: What if you want to watch the grass grow? Or At the very least to be able to MAKE your grass grow? What if you want to grow that beautiful lawn that the whole neighborhood is talking about? How do you do it?

Well, if that is what you are wondering, you're reading the right thing.

Below, I will discuss briefly various details you need to know in order to get that dream lawn. The idea here is to give you tips on what to do and what obstacles you may need to overcome when creating your lawn.

The first thing you need to do is prepare your "lawn" to actually be a lawn. If you have crab-grass, you're going to have to kill it. The best way is with a pre-emergent herbicide. After you accurately determine that you have crab-grass, killing it is vital to having that dream lawn. The ideal way to not have crab-grass is to have a nice healthy lawn. The healthy grass will actually crowd out the crab-grass killing this unwanted weed.
The next thing you need to do is plant the seeds. Planting seeds in topsoil is cheaper than laying sod, but may not have as nice results as sod if you do not plant it properly. Be sure that know the steps of the seeds you are using and follow the directions carefully.
If you decide that your lawn is just too messed up to be able to fix it with seeds and topsoil, you will need to have sod laid. Although this gives you a new beautiful lawn instantly, if you do not care for it properly, it is as good as dead. If you know how to care for it, this is the best way to instantly have a beautiful lawn.

In caring for your lawn, it is important to know what your schedule will be in caring for your lawn. This schedule should go from spring to fall, or all year if you are lucky enough to be in such a climate. Mowing, watering, and fertilizing should all be included in your schedule.
If you have dogs or other animals, this can be detrimental to your lawn's over-all health. You should make sure you know what your plan of action will be regarding your pet or pets. If you will allow them to run free in your lawn, you will obviously need to do more to ensure your lawn is healthy than if you do not allow them to run free in your lawn.

The next thing to keep an eye out for is lawn diseases. These diseases vary by climate, so make sure you know what to look for depending upon where you live. The most beautiful, most healthy lawn could become an eyesore instantly if it has a disease go untreated.
Another important thing to look out for is weeds. Weeds are more than just an eye-sore. They actually are detrimental to the health of your lawn since they selfishly use up nutrients that would go to your grass. They also can crowd out your grass by not giving your grass ample room to thrive, thereby killing your lawn.

Something that will beautify your lawn and give it a neat and professional look is lawn edging. Edging your lawn can be tedious, time-consuming, and difficult. If you do not know how to do it properly, do not attempt it! You will probably end up with an uneven edge that will not look like anything you had in mind before you decided to go ahead with it. If you do not know how to do it properly, hire a professional and just watch him or her. It is okay to act like a little kid and ask what he or she is doing and why he or she is doing it.

If your lawn ever does become extremely unsightly and unhealthy, the only thing you can do it to make it beautiful again might just be to renovate it. You can renovate it by laying sod or by topdressing it. Topdressing it is when you add topsoil, grass seeds, and nutrients to your lawn to give it that beautiful look again.

Dandelion weeds are very common and very unsightly. They should ideally be removed in the fall. Regardless, they must be removed whenever you see them. They are weeds like any other and are an eye-sore in addition to being detrimental to your lawn.

Tips On Watching Your Grass Grow

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90 UFO LED Plant Grow Light 420 7:1:1 Hydroponic 630nm

!±8± 90 UFO LED Plant Grow Light 420 7:1:1 Hydroponic 630nm

Brand : ETD | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 28, 2011 06:35:37 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

7:1:1 Ratio of Red / Blue / Yellow LED's at 630 nanometers works best for the Vegetative Stage Growing

This Grow Light is Specifically Designed to grow marijuana. Our engineers have designed the optimal light balance for both the Vegetative and Flowering stages in plant growth. The 7:1:1 Light Ratio of Red / Blue / Yellow LED's at 630 nanometers works best for the Vegetative Stage of Growing. We use the highest quality Bridgelux LED Chips guaranteed to last 3 years.These Chips create Exact light wave lengths ideal for maximum yields.

• Reduce Heat and Energy Costs Up to 90 % of what you are paying now
• Non undetectable from infrared camera in helicopters and aircraft due to low heat output
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• Bridgelux LED Chip creates Bright Pure Rays that are Exactly the ideal wave length to maximize Growth (Create Higher Yields and Larger Buds)
• (10) 595 nm YELLOW LED's Grow Larger Plants in vegetative cycle than white lights or orange lights in cannabis
• Eliminate Cooling Systems, Air Ducting, and Heat Exhaust fans save CO2 in your grow room
• No Ballast or Reflector Needed
• 1 light is ideal for a 2' x 3' area
• Environmentally Friendly Green Light do not use toxic chemicals like HPS and MH
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Specifications:

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• LED Wavelength: Red 630nm : Blue 460nm : Yellow 595nm
• Ratio: 7:1:1 - Red : Blue : Yellow (70 + 10 + 10)
• Indoor use only

• 3 Year Full Warranty
• The number of LED: 90pcs Red : Blue : Yellow (70 + 10 + 10)
• LED Wavelength: Red 630nm : Blue 460nm : Yellow 595nm
• Ratio: 7:1:1 - Red : Blue : Yellow (70 + 10 + 10)
• Indoor use only

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Sunshine Systems GU93635 GrowUFO 90 Watt LED Grow Light

!±8±Sunshine Systems GU93635 GrowUFO 90 Watt LED Grow Light

Brand : Sunshine Systems
Rate :
Price : $259.99
Post Date : Nov 14, 2011 18:51:50
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The GrowUFO LED grow light is the #1 selling LED UFO on the market today. The GrowUFO is 80-percent more energy efficient than a Metal Halide or HPS grow light and provides your plants with a perfect blend of light for fast, vigorous growth. The GrowUFO LED grow light is suitable for all phases of plant growth and works equally well whether you grow in hydroponics or soil. There are no special reflectors or ballasts needed and it works right out of the box. Just plug it in and you're ready to Glow Your Own. You can grow any indoor plant with a GrowUFO. Use a GrowUFO LED grow light to grow orchids, roses, peppers, tomatoes, basil, lettuce, herbs, kale, spinach, wheatgrass, broccoli, wildflowers, cucumbers, strawberries and many other flowers, fruits and vegetables. GrowUFOs are great for growing any houseplant and are excellent choices for nurseries or retail stores needing to provide additional lighting to plants over a large area. GrowUFOs provides coverage up to 12 square feet and are suitable for all stages of plant growth. GrowUFOs, are used by hydroponic and garden centers, master gardeners, home enthusiasts, florists, nurseries, researchers, universities, collectives, dispensaries, caregivers and more. - Up to 80-percent energy savings vs. Metal Halide and HPS grow lights. Fast growth - big blooms, buds and flowers. Virtually no heat emitted. Suitable for all stages of growth. Can be used with hydroponics, aeroponics, or soil (potted plants). 50,000+ hour lifecycle. Zero maintenance costs - No bulbs to replace. Green Product - CONTAINS NO MERCURY - . Hanging kit included.

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Hydroponic Gardening Using Automated Hydroponics

!±8± Hydroponic Gardening Using Automated Hydroponics

Hydroponics, as you probably already know, means growing plants in water instead of soil. Hydroponic gardening has a lot of advantages over the traditional soil garden. For instance, plants can be grown all year with hydroponics, rather than seasonal like traditional methods. In nature you rely on seasons to allow your plants to go through their natural vegetative and flowering stages. But in an hydroponic garden, you can control the timing of the lights to mimic seasons in nature. Also, growing with hydroponics means your plants will grow a lot faster than in soil. In soil your plants have to grow a huge root system to get the water and nutrients that plants need. In a hydroponic garden however, a very small root system can provide adequate water and nutrients to keep the plant sufficiently growing. As a results plants grown in a hydroponic garden can grow much faster and achieve much denser growth than their counterparts in soil!

However, hydroponic gardening does have its drawback, and that is maintenance. In a hydroponic garden it is important to make sure you never run out of water. Water is the life giving element to plants, and if the h20 in your reservoir gets used up, your plants will die quickly. Always ensure you plants have adequate water when leaving for any prolonged amount of time. In addition it is also important to carefully monitor your pH levels. For most plants a pH of 5.5 is preferred. Anything higher or lower than that could cause a nutrient lock up, and cause your plants to be unable to get the nutrients they need out of the water. This can sicken and even kill your plants over time.

Many gardeners have adapted automated hydroponics systems in their indoor gardens. This automated hydroponics systems are capable of monitoring and adjusting your water levels automatically. This means your plants will never run out of water. At the same time the pH levels are also monitored. When the pH levels are skewed, a pump is activated to adjust the pH levels up and down automatically. This means your plants will always have the optimum amount of water/nutrients and at the proper pH to keep the plants growing at their peak performance. Automated hydroponic gardening is changing the way indoor growers produce their organic vegetables and fruits.

Hydroponic Gardening Using Automated Hydroponics

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Hydroponic Herbs Garden

!±8± Hydroponic Herbs Garden

Hydroponics is a method of growing plants in water; it is a soil-less plant growing method. Besides hydroponically grown tomatoes and lettuce important herbs like basil, arugula, oregano, lemon balm etc can be grown with the help of hydroponics growing system. Nutrient requirements of hydroponic herbs may vary from plant to plant. It is possible to grow several hydroponic herbs in one nutrient solution; but special care should be taken to prevent hydroponic herbs from nutrient deficiencies. There are three main types of hydroponic herbs serving different purposes; for instance, there are herbs that can be used specifically for cooking (culinary herbs), there are medicinal herbs (home healing) and ornamental herbs.

It can be grown in one unit for a year without again setting up the unit to grow the new ones, unlike growing hydroponics fruits and vegetables where you have to clean the hydroponic unit after harvesting to start over again. You can build your personal hydroponics herbs gardening for kitchen cooking purpose. Hydroponics herbs systems are automated and easily utilized.

The common and easily grown cooking herbs are basil, mint, oregano, and parsley that enhance the taste of your food. The medicinal herbs are ginger root, kava-kava, violet and gravel root. And ornamental herbs used for decoration or presentation purposes are sage, rosemary and chamomile. The three main types of simple hydroponic growing systems are Nutrient Film Technique (NFT), Ebb and Flow means and Aeroponic means.

It can be easily done anywhere, either indoor or outdoor, with simple gardening method. For successful gardening, you should understand plants preferred pH, soil requirement, water needs, possible pest diseases etc. It has been proven that hydroponically grown herbs are healthier, delicious and fresher than the herbs grown traditionally. These herbs are free of chemicals and fertilizers.

Medicinal hydroponics herbs are simple and reliable. Hydroponics marijuana is an important ingredient of therapies for curing AIDS and cancer; it also acts as a pain killer in certain conditions. Hydroponic herbs since decades have been used for therapeutic programs. Another medicinal benefit of marijuana or weed is treating glaucoma, a condition that causes loss of vision. Growing hydroponic weed is a smart choice because it helps to heal many illnesses by just sitting at home. Medicinal gardening can be done easily at home and can be used immediately in teas and extracts!

Hydroponic Herbs Garden

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Growing Strawberries in the Home Garden

!±8± Growing Strawberries in the Home Garden

Strawberries are the number one fruit crop for home plant­ings. Strawberries may also be grown as a cash crop in large home plantings.

On the other hand strawberries are a versatile, highly nutritious fruit. One cup of fresh berries supplies more than the recom­mended daily adult requirement for Vitamin C.

You should be able to harvest at least a quart of berries per five feet of row, if follow good strawberries cultural practices. Usually, an initial planting of about 125 plants will provide plenty of fresh strawberry and enough for freezing or preserving for a family of four. Strawberries are tasteful fruits and you can prepare many recipes with strawberries for your family or kids: strawberry ice cream, strawberry salad, strawberry jam, strawberry muffins or strawberry pie and the list can keep going. What do you say? I think we have just convinced you to plant strawberries in your home garden, thus can be sure of strawberries freshness.

Before decid­ing to plant strawberries, consider:

* strawberries site selection

* strawberries plant selection

* strawberries site preparation

* strawberries propagation and planting

* strawberries general care, including fertilization, renovation, and irrigation

* strawberries mulching

* strawberries harvesting

* strawberries pest control.

Strawberries site selection

The most successful strawberry planting receives full sun most of the day. Shady locations promote more vegetative growth, but yield few fruit. Shady locations are usually wetter than sunny sites, and therefore have greater disease problems.

Plants stressed by drought have more disease problems and a lower yield than strawberries that have received adequate water. Irrigation water should be available to help the plants survive dry periods throughout the year.

Strawberries do best when grown in soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 6.5. Avoid planting strawberries in low areas because they are often prone to late spring frost. The site should not have been used for any kind of berries, tomatoes, potatoes, or peppers prior to planting new strawberries. This helps prevent disease problems, such as tomato ring spot virus and root rot.

Strawberries plant selection

While there are many strawberry varieties from which to choose, the performance of any one variety is greatly influenced by local growing conditions and climate. When choosing a strawberry variety, it is important to consider the following:

* Select strawberry varieties adapted to your region.

* Accept only healthy-looking, certified virus-free plants. Purchase plants from an established nursery and place orders as early as the nurseries will take them. Be sure to specify a delivery date.

* Most strawberries will produce good crops if only one variety is planted. However, Spring Giant and Apollo are exceptions and should be planted within 25 feet of another variety for pollination. It is usually better to plant more than one variety. A disease or frost is less likely to devastate your entire planting if you have several varieties.

* The fruiting season can be extended by planting varieties that ripen at different times.

* Consider the preservation quality and disease and insect resistance of the variety.

* Choose strawberry varieties that you like. Some people like sweet berries, while others prefer tart berries.

* Choose strawberry varieties that bloom when you want them to. Early-season varieties ripen in early May to mid-June. Mid-season varieties ripen in mid-May to mid-June. Late-season varieties ripen in late May to mid-June. Ever bearers produce berries mid-May to mid-June, a few during the summer, and again in the fall. Fruit size and quality may not be as good as it is in other varieties, and total yield is often lower than that of June-bearers. Some varieties, such as Tennessee Beauty, are listed as June-bear­ers by some sources and ever bearers by others.

Strawberries soil preparation

If the site is in grass sod, wait one year before planting strawberries. Use that year to kill grass and grubs, and to build the beds and provide extra drainage, if needed.

Have the soil tested several months before planting strawberries.

Till the soil to provide a weed-free planting area. Keep in mind that beds should be narrow enough for easy picking-usually not more than three feet wide. Organic matter, such as straw, manure, peat moss, or compost, can be added by plowing or tilling it into the soil several weeks before plants are set. Two to three weeks before planting, mix the recommended fertilizer and lime into the soil. Allow rainfall to settle the beds or use sprinklers.

Strawberries propagation and planting

Strawberries are propagated by removing rooted runners from the mother plants and placing them in a new strawberry bed. Patented varieties may not be legally propagated either for expanding your plantings or for sale.

Adequate soil moisture must be present during the winter months for good root de­velopment. Plants should not be set during dry windy conditions or if extremely cold weather is predicted during the following few days.

Before planting, remove all but two or three of the most vigorous leaves from the plants. Plant the straw­berries 1.5 to 2.5 feet apart, depending on the vigor of the variety. Since the strawberry has the potential to produce 30 to 50 runner plants the first year of growth, this distance will allow plants to develop runners in the row, while keeping the middle between the rows free of plants. Ask your nursery representative for recommen­dations on plant spacing for the varieties you choose. Plant the strawberries so that the crowns (where the leaves arise) are even with the ground surface after the soil has been firmed around the roots. This is very important, because plants set too deeply will rot and plants set too shallowly will dry out and die. Spread the roots out somewhat in the planting hole. Pack the soil firmly enough to hold the plant in the ground if you tug on a leaf, but not so firmly as to crush the plants.

If you use a hand trowel to plant the strawberries, push it about six inches into the prepared soil, and then pull it forward to open the hole. Put the plant into the hole at the proper depth and remove the trowel. Then, close the hole by placing the trowel in front of the plant and pulling the trowel forward to firm the soil. After set­ting, give each plant at least a pint of water.

Do not allow plants to become dry during the plant­ing operation. As each bundle of plants is opened, place the plants in a container with just enough water to keep the roots wet. Planting may be easier if the roots are trimmed slightly with scissors or a sharp knife so that they fit more easily into the hole.

An irrigation system such as leaky pipe or other drip irrigation is recommended in order to lessen disease problems associated with wet foliage. These systems also conserve water that can be lost through evapora­tion and runoff.

Strawberries growing conditions

First Year

During the summer, runner strawberry plants form from mother plants and take root. In the fall, plants build up food re­serves and form fruit buds for the next year's crop. The plants must be kept healthy for the best development of new plants and fruit buds.

The strawberry plant is shallow-rooted and requires frequent watering after transplanting. If there is little or no rainfall within any two week period of spring or sum­mer, enough water should be applied to wet the soil to a depth of 12 inches. This will usually require about one inch of applied water.

Between August 15 and September 15, broadcast 1.5 pounds of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.

This will give adequate nitrogen for fruit bud set. Make sure leaves are dry at application, and brush all fertil­izer off the leaves immediately afterward. Apply about one inch of water if rain is not expected within a day or two.

For strongest strawberries and best production the follow­ing year, remove all flowers throughout the first season. If berries are allowed to develop the first year, they will reduce plant growth, runner development, and next year's crop.

Subsequent Years

In the spring, take a soil sample from the beds. After picking strawberries, renovate your planting. Renovation is the process of narrowing the strawberry rows and controlling weeds after fruit harvest. This is necessary to keep the strawberry bed healthy and productive. Narrow the rows to eight to 10 inches with a hoe. Con­trol weeds and apply any fertilizer needed at this time. Water strawberry plants after renovation. Be sure to read the label on any herbicides used to properly time irrigation for optimum weed control. If weeds are outgrowing the strawberries, there may be too much nitrogen in the soil and you may need to reduce nitrogen fertilizer ap­plications. Otherwise, apply fertilizer as recommended by your Extension educator, based on your soil test results.

Follow the same fertilizer and care recommendations as those made for the first year (watering, fall nitrogen application, and winter frost protection). Properly nur­tured strawberry beds should last through three to five years of harvest.

Strawberries mulching

A well-established row of vigorous strawberry plants will produce a mulching effect because of their own shade. Strawberry plants may benefit from a winter covering of straw or similar mulch over the row. This winter mulch is used to prevent undue freezing and thawing, as well as excessive drying of the plants by winter winds.

The proper time to apply mulch is between middle and late December, following several hard frosts. By this time, the plants have developed cold hardiness. Mulching at an earlier time may cause serious injury to the plants during the winter because they will not become cold hardy. Straw should be added loosely to a depth of three to four inches to cover the entire row.

The mulch must be removed when the earliest strawberry plant growth begins in the spring (usually March). In order to determine the proper time, lift some of the mulch and examine the plants beneath it. If new leaves have begun to develop, their color will be light green. At this time, the mulch may be removed or raked to the side of the row. This allows the mulch to be con­veniently placed back over the row if another frost is predicted.

Leaving some of the mulch in the berry row is desir­able, as long as foliage and flower stalks can emerge. This will help keep soil and soil-borne diseases off of the fruit. The mulch aids in harvesting during wet spells, decreases damage received in hail storms, lessens erosion of new strawberry beds, and helps with weed control. Winter mulch may also help avoid some spring frost injury by delaying plant development and flower­ing.

Fabric mulches are also available. They are usu­ally applied over hoops which arch over the strawberry beds. The edges of the fabric are covered with soil or weighted with bricks or other objects to keep out wind. Fabric mulches must be removed when bloom begins in order to allow bees to pollinate the flowers. Otherwise, you can expect a poor crop. If plants appear pale green in color and have not yet begun to bloom, go ahead and remove the mulch to allow more sunlight to reach the plants. To remove fabric mulch, carefully take the soil or other weight off of one edge and off of the ends. Then, fold the fabric off of the plants and lay it in a row on one side of the strawberries. This makes it easy to replace the fabric in the evening if there is danger of frost. When the fabric is no longer needed, it may be folded and stored for the next season if it is in good shape. Fabric mulches seem to provide a small amount of protection from hail damage if they are in place when the storm occurs.

Strawberries harvesting

The time from strawberry bloom to first strawberry harvest will vary from 18 to 45 days, depending on the variety and weather. Pick strawberries when they reach the desired stage. Varieties vary in their color development at ripeness. Some are pink when ripe, while others are red or even dark red. Tasting the berries is the best way to tell when to pick them.

For best storage life (3-10 days in the refrigerator, depending on handling and variety), pick the fruit in the cool part of the day. Leave the caps on until you use the fruit. If you want to freeze or process the berries, you may want to choose varieties with long necks rather than sunken caps, because the caps are easy to remove.

Strawberries pest control

Strawberries are susceptible to many diseases and insects. The most notable animal pests are aphids, spider mites, white (root) grubs, strawberry leaf rollers, slugs, pill bugs, and nematodes. There are many chemical control options for these pests. However, homeowners may want to use gentler means of pest control, such as using resistant varieties (where avail­able), soaps for aphid and spider mite control, specific Bacillus thuringiensis preparations for grub and leaf roller control, beer traps for slugs and pillbugs, and plant­ing marigolds the year before strawberry planting for nematode control.

Diseases of strawberries include bacterial and fungal leaf spots, powdery mildew, leaf scorch fungus, leaf blight, gray mold and other fruit rots, red stele root rot, verticillium wilt, various viruses, and nematode-caused diseases. Planting resistant varieties is the easiest method of disease control. This method is only successful if the plants are resistant to the strain of the disease that is present in your area.

The most important consideration is to obtain healthy, disease-free plants. Strawberry plants show few visible symptoms of virus disease, but infected plants grow poorly and produce little fruit. It is important to obtain certified plants from virus-free stock. Choosing virus resistant varieties may also help. Most strawberry plant nurseries have certified disease-free plants avail­able.

When the fruit ripening period coincides with cool, cloudy, rainy weather, fruit rots and leaf spot may develop. These conditions are often encountered in the eastern section of the state because of the relatively humid conditions. The problems are usually more serious when the plants are too crowded, have grasses and other weeds in the row, or have had too much nitrogen fertilizer.

A common disease of strawberry plants is herbicide injury. Although weed control is important in strawberry beds, herbicides must be used with care to prevent injury to the strawberry plants. Hand weeding, where practical, is a good idea.

Growing Strawberries in the Home Garden

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Weed Management of Blueberries - In-Row and Inter-Row Weed Management

!±8± Weed Management of Blueberries - In-Row and Inter-Row Weed Management

Introduction

Controlling weeds is considered to be the one of the most significant problems for many blueberry growers. This article discusses both in-row and inter-row weed management.

In-row Mulching and Weed Control

Controlling Weeds is considered to be the one of the most significant problems for many blueberry growers. It is particularly important to control aggressive perennial weeds and undesirable perennial grasses that grow by producing many underground stems, called rhizomes. Quack grass, Johnson grass, and Bermuda grass are examples of grasses that spread by rhizomes and should be killed before you plant blueberries as they can be a major invasive problem.

Organic mulching material to a depth of about 4 inches (usually sawdust or ground bark) is needed for good production. Irrigation is also a requirement. Blueberries are grown generally on mulched, raised beds in clay soils such as those in Kentucky. Raised beds help provide adequate drainage. Raised beds also help reduce the occurrence of soil and water-borne diseases. Thick organic mulches provide weed and disease suppression, soil temperature regulation, slow-release of nutrients, and moisture conservation. Water management is of paramount concern because blueberry roots lack root hairs they are not efficient in water and mineral absorption.

It is critical to maintain a weed-free zone around blueberries so the blueberry plants do not have to compete with the weeds for water and nutrients. Researchers have determined that an optimum weed free zone around the blueberry plant during the first years of growth should extend roughly 1.5 to 2 feet on each side of the plant. This translates to a 3- to 4-foot-wide, weed-free row bed.

Inter-row Management

As already mentioned blueberries do not have extensive root systems. As a result, clean cultivation of row middles to control weeds and to incorporate cover crops can be done with little damage to blueberries. One should not till deeper than 3 inches if tilling is necessary. Sodden middles that do not contain grasses that spread by rhizomes and are generally not competitive with the blueberry crop are very good and provide inter-row living mulches that can be mowed to add nutrients back to the soil. Mowing, usually three to five times each year, is the usual means of controlling weeds and other vegetation in these sodded middles. Dandelions are perennial weeds that are "good weeds" to allow growing in the sodded middles because they have long tap roots and bring up nutrients from deep in the ground. When mowed these nutrients become available to the blueberry plants. It is important that weeds not be allowed to produce seed and thus perpetuate the weed problem. Fescue is sometimes used for sodded middles, as are several other grass species.

Summary

Controlling Weeds is considered to be the one of the most significant problems for many blueberry growers. Both in-row and inter-row management of weeds is important in blueberry fields.

Weed Management of Blueberries - In-Row and Inter-Row Weed Management

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